Broken brake adjusting cam Haffy
  • Hi,  I have just snapped the peg off the brake adjusting cam due to heavy handedness. I need to get the cam out and replace it. Fortunately I have some early cams without the 19mm nut welded on. So I need to get out one of each type of cam to swap over. I can't see how to get them off and the manual is not a lot of help. Can anyone advise please?
  • HI Peter,

    Replied over on your post on the haflinger.com. I also moved your original post to a more appropriate area of the forum.


    John
  • Hi John, thanks for giving peter.m advice on his brake problem.  Regards Pete
  • For those people who look here in the hopes of finding the answer, here it is:-

    I have just had a similar problem with Lurch and needed to remove one of the brake cam adjusters. They are a typical Haflinger designer "just because we can" solution.

    The cam has a machined lip on the side which has the offset peg on it, so you can not just punch it through from that side. That means you have to do so from the side which has the 19mm nut welded to it on the later versions or the side which has the 8mm square adjuster nut.
    The shaft has had 4 spot welds put on the 4 sides of the shaft which stops it falling out. The four spot welds are then machined to chop off 2/3 of the welds to give you the 4 sided nut.
    So in order to take the adjuster out, you have to use a hacksaw or an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut down each side of the square nut shape until you get to the surface of the top washer. Once you have done that, you can clean up with a file and take off the two washers - one is a wavy washer which takes up the play which might exist when they put the spot welds on.
    Once you have got the washers off, you have drift the adjuster out in the direction of the offset peg (which isn't there any more).

    There are new replacements adjusters which you can buy which start out like the early version and come with a nut which you are then supposed to weld on! 

    Stupid idea in my book, would have been far better to have just drilled a hole through the nut and the shaft in the appropriate place and put a roll pin through to keep the nut in place. You could then just punch the roll pin out and undo the nut and take out the adjuster to lubricate the shaft which will never have been lubricated from manufacturer because you can't get at it, you just have to hope that some oil gets to the right places if you squirt oil on the outside of the adjuster.

    John


  • John, Thanks for the valuable information re the brake
    adjuster cam .



     After a lot of angle grinding I managed to get both the
    broken cam and a very old one off a spare hub I have, this was to be the
    replacement adjuster. The replacement adjuster’s squared end was very rounded
    so I took your advice re a roll pin. I built up the “square” peg with weld, and
    then machined it round in my lathe to the required diameter to just fit the
    hole in the backplate.  I then took a 12M
    nut, bored the thread out to fit the round adjuster,  drilled a 4mm hole through both the nut and
    the adjuster to take a roll pin and put it all together, not forgetting the
    spring washer. So far it seems to be the business and as you say has the added advantage
    of being easily replaceable.


    I'm now sleeving a couple of brake cylinders, all a good distraction from doing up my 1957 Land Rover



  • Just remember to take up any free play between the hub back plate and the nut with the wavy washer and any number of other washers as spacers.

    The way Haflinger designers got round the rounded "square peg" problem was to weld a 19mm nut on the shaft!
    So you would have to grind off the weld holding the nut and then grind off the remains of the the 4 spot welds!
    As you discovered, having to grind off bits of weld in order to take the adjusters off is a pain! Not that you should have to take them off very often....

    John

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