Its that time of the year so why not an old Chestnut
  • Sorry to raise this again but to quote the song, I am going slightly mad. My March 1973 Polycab wiring doesn't look like anything I have seen published. 
    I was all ready to go for an MOT and whilst checking the lights discovered that the brake lights don't work. Should be simple, not.
    The brake switch was very ropey so have replaced it with a new one (yes I am made of money). Have continuity checked the front to rear wire, its all ok. The earths are ok as all the other lights work. The wire that goes up to the fuse box seems to go to the oil light. But all the diags  I have seen have the orange wire either going straight to the fuse box, and I only have one, or to the blinker switch (21) which seems a bit odd. I think there should just be a straight feed off the fuse box to the switch and onwards to the lights. Couldn't be simpler, but now I have no hair. There are times when I could cheerfully chop it up for scrap.
     
    Is the diag in vol24 number 1 2013 ok for a polycab, or should I be looking elsewhere? I also have the parts/service manuals and they don't help either.

    Has anybody got any bright ideas.

    Nigel of York

    And a happy Christmas to all my readers.  :)




  • Nigel,

    I have had the same issue with the actual wiring in the Haflinger not matching ANY wiring diagram I have seen published. I know of at least two others that have had the same issue.

    So it appears that the later civilian models did not follow the published wiring diagrams closely. I found that the one in the club magazine is the NEAREST to what is actually in Lurch (1973 LWB).

    The magazine version has two fuse boxes, but I don't think that matters very much. It shows two orange wires coming from the brake light switch, one goes towards the back where it goes through a connector and becomes a PINK wire. This then goes to the rear brake light filament on one side (I think the left)and then one to the right hand side. The wiring diagram suggests that it splits presumably at the engine firewall to give a line to either side.
    Through the bulb to earth (bodywork metal) 

    The other orange wire from the switch goes to a fuse box (does not matter if you have one or two fuse boxes), through a fuse to a live green wire which comes from the starter switch connection 30 - so this is live all the time - even with the ignition switch turned off.- allows you to have lights on without engine running.

    It would not matter if the one orange wire from the switch goes to the oil light as long as it connects on the side which has the GREEN wire as this would also be a LIVE wire from the fuse box.

    It would also not matter if it went to the blinker switch as long as it connects to terminal 30 on the blinker switch as this is also LIVE all the time.

    The dashboard on Lurch is a real birds nest behind the fascia. I might take a cutting implement to the main loom as it comes up from the floor, put a multiway plug in there to join the two halves together. Then at a later date, I can take the whole dash out and re-wire it all nice and tidy and then just plug it back in to get all the electrics back. 

    John
    Wizard in the south.

    Get it on the road for the new year - Best Christmas present ever!!
  • Thanks John, i knew you would have some helpful info. I shall be out in the garage again tomorrow. I got totally frustrated this afternoon. Why does it all have to be so complicated. I thought old cars were supposed to be easy to work on. I will report back later.

    N
  • So does it have an MOT yet Nigel?

    The wiring on a Haflinger is simple, except it runs in channels you can't get at without taking platform off and it 40 years old!

    I wonder if when they designed / built them they had a "life span" in mind?

    John
  • Current situation is that brake light fault was a bad connection behind the dash. Handbrake lever has been adjusted so its not round my ears when on. My mot garage opens on monday after the hols and will book it in for this wed if poss as i have a free day then. In the mean time i have to find another transfer box for my lr90 as it made lots of nasty noises during a trial last sunday. Oh i do so love working on old cars.
    I will report back after mot.
    Nigel of Penury.
  • I suppose you know it's the transfer box and not the gear box? http://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=37

    Shame, now you will have to use the Haf for your Trials!

    John

  • Its definitely the transfer box. The main gearbox is ok. And trust me,as soon as i have an mot i will be showing the land rovers in my trialling club what haf can do.
  • Good news. My Hafi now has an MOT. My very nice MOT man passed it with just two advisories, both for the ball joints on the steering arm.  There is a small amount of play !!!!!!!!  :) 
    So the next question is where to source the joints from. Obviously I can get them from up north, but I think there are some QH or VW equivalents.  QR900 right hand and left hand. Van anybody confirm please?

    Next plan is to cut off the old land rover bumper and then soda blast the cab to get rid of all the horrible green Hammerite and then repaint in Pebble Grey, the original colour. 
  • Evening Nigel,

    Merc:QR900RHT - Right hand thread
    Merc: QR900LHT - Left hand thread.

    (They show up on that auction site if that's where you want to source them from. Or use the codes to cross reference to other manufactures and other availability options.)
      
    Depending on which ball joints have the play, you "might" have to attack the ball joint castings with an angle grinder to take off a little bit to stop them rubbing on things they are not supposed to rub on.

    Only thing you really need to worry about is that these will not have split pins holding the nuts in place but Nylocks. This means that after you fit them, you should clean the threads to make sure there is no grease on them and then put the Nylock nuts on. This obviously means that if you take them off in several years time they might be rusted in place! Good nut spliter will solve that, and you should use new Nylocks every time in any case.

    John

  • Thanks John, i knew you would know. I am off to York tomorrow so will visit the local vw agent or partco.

  • That's what wizards are for!

    John

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